Our Little House

So today was the big day. We got the keys to the house. Easy enough. Sign some papers hand over the money and in return, a set a keys. Well, it’s a bit more complicated than that in Uruguay. All in all, really it’s not that hard, just very time consuming. The papers are very similar to the contracts that you might see in the States as a rental agreement. We also received a six page inventory addendum detailing absolutely every little thing included in the rental (since it is furnished and equipped) down the color and number of forks in the kitchen. In our case, we received this list in advance via email so we were able to review ahead of time.

The detailed addendum contained too many household items to know all of them in Spanish, even if your Spanish is quite good. We just pasted the text of the Word doc text into Google Translate. This site is a fantasitic tool. It will translate a word or entire websites while keeping you on the site. Want to read the local paper El Pais? Just pop the URL into Translate and it will almost comes across as though it were written in English. It’s not perfect, but if you know some Spanish you can clean up the translation afterward. Anyway, fantastic tool. Use it for all of your translating needs.

Armed with this inventory list, we were picked up by Jorge at the aparthotel at 12:40. An odd time you say? Not exactly. The banks in Uruguay open to the public at 1pm and most close at 5pm. (You thought bankers’ hours were nice in the States and elsewhere!) This gave us enough time to stop at the house where we were given the keys by the other rental agent, Andrea  and received a few additional details. Then off I went to the bank (Itaú) with Jorge while Lisa and Geneva stayed at the new house to review the checklist.  Andrea went to the Banco Hipotecario del Uruguay (BHU), where we’d be meeting her later.

The Banking:

Half the keys we received

Half the keys we received

 

Lisa detailed this the other day. We had wired money from our Credit Union in MN that posted to Jorge’s business account in 1 day. We’re were told it would take two or three days, but expected four or five. We expected the worst, but in the end very simple very easy.  Now it gets complicated. The process is well defined, but certainly different.  Try to keep up.

We had to withdraw a ridiculous sum of money for all of the different payments we had to make today, which of course had to be approved by several people at the bank. Thankfully, I was wearing my jeans (jeans = lots of good pockets). I ended up with a pocket for each sum. One pocket for the deposit (the equivalent of five months rent…again weird laws thus the strange practice.  I think we put down less when we closed on our house in MN!) to be held in escrow at the one bank in town that does this…BHU where Andrea was already waiting with the number that held our place in line (otherwise it would really take all day to complete the transaction). This main sum for the deposit had to be in pesos. Jorge had already called his friend at the bank while we were driving there. We were given a rate nearly a point better than that posted. Not bad. It pays to know someone.  In such a small country, everyone knows someone. So deposit money one pocket in Pesos. Second pocket the 1st month rent in US Dollars for Andrea. Third pocket the equivalent of 1 month’s rent plus the taxes of 22% for Jorge and all his work….and he deserves every penny. Then the little extra so I could buy a pack of gum in the final pocket. It was more than that but I was feeling a little house poor at that point.

So off  to the BHU to meet Andrea. Just a couple things to accomplish here. Sign the contracts which took about three minutes and place the deposit. This is the painful part….for everyone. It’s a huge bank. I envisioned about 500 people standing outside the door ready to rush in like like a store the day after thanksgiving or worse Filene’s Basement the day of the bridal dress sale.

I am pretty certain that each banker processes 4 to 5 transactions in the 4 hours that they are open to the public. We waited about 45 minutes to get from number 21 (the number we saw when Jorge and I arrived) to number 33–us. Mind you there are about 30 or 40 desks that–in theory–could help us. So we waited. Signed the papers and I gave Andrea the first month of rent. We chatted. We commiserated about this bank. It went fairly quickly. Andrea had already completed most of the form to create the deposit account. Yea! Finally 33! We go to one of the desks. They hand the banker the paperwork. Almost nothing is said. The gentleman types away while we chat. 20 minutes later. He’s done and prints off a form with our new account number. That’s wasn’t so bad. Oh, we’re not done?? We have to go to the teller (caja) to put in the money in the bank. 35 minutes in line and we’re at the counter. We deposit our funds less 2% for the bank for the priviledge of them holding our money. Jorge tells me it used to be interest bearing account but that practice had ended. BHU does however pay back the money at the end of the term at the rate of inflation. So one’s money is at least worth what it was when it went in. In pesos anyway. So money is in. Now we walk back over to the first desk where Andrea had been patiently waiting. They verifiy the details and we’re done. In all, about two hours were spent at the bank. Good times. Then back to the house to see how Lisa and Geneva made out go over a few more details and discuss the urgent need to grab a drink and celebrate. Whew!

Oh that’s right, we have to take care of Jorge. We give Jorge his agency’s fee plus the taxes and we’re set.

I’ll let Lisa describe some of the “fun” and “interesting” features of the new house in an upcoming edition, like the grasera, tiny propane range and the 200-some keys we were handed (not quite, but close!).

A Day with Friends

Today turned out to be a pretty terrific Sunday. It actually started on Saturday evening when we were invited to a Sunday morning excursion to the park by someone we met here last year (all names are removed- try to keep up!). With his wife away for the weekend and two young daughters at home, a crisp fall morning at the park would do everyone good. Brad, Geneva and I had a nice breakfast at the hotel (although after 3 weeks here, it is getting a little boring) and then received the call at about 10:30 AM that they were headed to the park shortly. We packed and walked the 10 blocks to Parque Biarritz where there is a large play area. On such a great morning, it was packed. After about a half an hour there with a very clingy Geneva, it was time to move on. Before we left though, there was an invitation to stop by their house later this afternoon to socialize some more. Thanks, we just may do that!

Out next appointment at noon was meeting some visitors from MN. We had met a couple before leaving MN who are planning to purchase retirement property in Uruguay withing the next couple of years. It is a funny, random connection. The husband works with my cousin’s husband and really, how many people from MN are planning on moving to Uruguay? Well, at least a few of us and we were introduced. We met once for lunch in MN and have corresponded back and forth to plan a meeting while they are visiting Uruguay. Today was the day and it was great to see some familiar faces from home! I think we were a welcome sight for them as well because their first 24 hours in UY had been rough with missing luggage, a noisy hotel room leading to a sleepless night, etc. We talked and commiserated at Old Maz restaurant for a while before we were joined by many others there for the 1:00 Expat meetup.

Sunday at 1 PM there is a meeting of english speaking Expats at the Old Maz restaurant in the Pocitos neighborhood of Montevideo . They’ve been meeting every Sunday for three years, rain or shine, holiday or not (we were there on Easter Sunday). There are tourists, people investigating Uruguay for a future move, and those of us who are committed and are going to be here for a while. There is no formal meeting, it is just a group that gathers to socialize, share experiences and learn from each other. Today was absolutely packed! We stayed for a little while but with a baby that was growing more and more tired, we left at about 1:45.

Skip ahead through a late lunch, drama with a sleepy Geneva bumping her head and a long nap for all of us…. and 5 PM rolls around. We head out to see if the invitation to come by still sticks. It does and we apparently have perfect timing. Two little girls sit at the table, the older one who is 5 and is totally bilingual is doing homework (spelling and cursive) an in both languages. Let me say that again… 5 year old…. homework… both languages. I was stunned at the skill of this intelligent little girl. Very fun to watch. We all played and were invited for an impromptu meal. Wine was brought out, we talked, the girls played, the meal was amazing. It was really great to have a home cooked meal. It feels like it’s been so long! There are only a few people we know who can deliver such an incredible, non-scripted dinner and evening of entertainment. It was really a nice time. While we were there, the Mom of the family came home and joined us for dinner, and we made our exit not too long after, as all the girls needed to get to bed.

A long, busy, very fun day with friends. What a good day.

NOTE: I’m learning that I am really bad at planning photos for my posts. Sorry for the wordiness and nothing to look at. I can’t believe that a visual person like myself can’t seem to remember the to grab the camera. If I could only hook you up to my brain…no wait. Dangerous!

Walking, Then Walking Some More

Since we arrived, I am both happy and embarrassed to say that I have not taken a cab or a bus and the only time I have been in a car is to see houses with our Inmobiliario (rental agent), Jorge.   I am happy to say that because we have done some pretty hard core walking and with the help of Brad’s GPS, figure that we do on average about 4 miles per day. I’m embarrassed because I have not seen as much of the city as I would have liked by this time.  

We will not have a car here and love it because it is such a walkable city with services and shops spread evenly throughout the neighborhoods.  Once we get settled, we’ll take you on a stroll down the street where we will be living. It is amazing that there is almost everything one could need within about 3 blocks. 

Ciudad Vieja fountainThere is certainly a limit on how far I will walk, though. Take this morning for example, we went to go see the dogs. It is a little over a mile in each direction.  By the time we got food and got back to the hotel, we estimate it was almost three miles round trip.  The plan was to eat, go to the hotel for Geneva’s nap then take a cab ride into Ciudad Vieja (Old Town).  Well, once we get back to the hotel Brad must have had a burst of post-empanada energy and suggests that we walk to Old Town.  We did this last year when we visited.  It was a beautiful walk along the water the whole way, but it is 5 miles in each direction with the curving coastline!  That is simply too much for today.  I don’t want to be a wuss, but I think my limit for walking without wining the whole way is about 6 miles per day tops.  We’ll take the cab to Ciudad Vieja today and leave the walking trip for another time when we can start earlier and haven’t already done 3 miles.  

If you want to read more about Ciudad Vieja/Old Town, Wikipedia has a nice short summary here.  It is the business and tourist center of MVD, the architecture is amazing (although can be found in varying states of decay) and the scene is completely different than Pocitos, the neighborhood where we’ve been staying.

Culinary Discoveries

I had read in some of the Expat forums prior to arriving here that certain products are either hard to find, extremely expensive or even non-existent in Uruguay. Specific spices, nuts (expensive), Goat’s milk and prepared “ethnic” foods like Mexican are a few examples that come to mind. I am so very happy to report that while preparing for the worst, we have been very pleasantly surprised.

The most common foods found here are an Italian/Spanish hybrid along with what most outsiders consider the “Argentine” Asado. We’ve been to one Mexican restaurant, Roma Tijuana, were quite pleased and know of only one other by Montevideo Shopping. Contrary to what some Norteamericanos think, Uruguay is NOT Mexico!!!  It is easier to find a Heineken or Stella Artois here than a Corona!

 

We packed a few things with us that we’d use frequently, like fish oil and flax supplements along with a hefty sized bag of TVP (texturized vegetable protein).  We thought it was such a specialty item, there was no way that we’d be able to find some down here.  We use it as a filler instead of meat for stews, chili, etc.  Well, lo and behold, today I found it.  

Market at Berro and Marti

There is a street market or Feria that sets up every Friday just outside of our hotel door.  Stretches one block down calle José Martí and two blocks down Pedro Francisco Berro and is mostly fresh fruits and veggies with the occasional meet, cheese, clothing or housewares stand.  I was walking through with Geneva today and wanted to get some fruit (Now which one of the 40 fruit vendors do I go to??) when I happened upon a lone vendor of spices.  He was jammed in between a few busy fruit stands and with baby in tow, I coundn’t muscle my way in to the stand for a closer look, but my superior height allowed me to see the labels of the items, including bags of a chunky, recognizable, dried product labeled “Protein de Soya”.  Bingo!  It’s here.  It’s around. Our bag will probably last us a long while but it’s good to know that reserves exist!

The whole atmosphere surrounding the discovery was made more wonderful by the old accordian player sitting on the corner.  As he hunched over his well loved instrument, I dug for some change and put it in his tin.  I am a sucker for the accordian.   

Later today, long after the market packed up and traffic once again took over those streets, we found that the Mexican restaurant down calle José Martí in the other direction was open for business.  After several days of watching and waiting while they set up, we can’t wait to try it out.  It is more of a restaurant stall, with a vey small but cute storefront and outdoor seating (picture to come tomorrow).  No matter, I’m sure we’ll end up there tomorrow to try out their veggie burrito (Brad) and some wonderful meat option (me) all washed down by a few lovely Corona….

The VW Beetle. Everywhere.

Coming from a family of car enthusiasts, I pay attention.  Not to engine details or cubic feet of cargo space- I’m an aesthetics girl.  I like the way certain cars look.  It’s like moving architecture.  The design and thought put into some models is mind blowing but other cars just seem to stand out in their simplicity. 

The VW Bug- A common sight in MVD

The VW Bug- Everywhere in Montevideo

The VW Beetle is one of those cars that happens to stand out.  The “Escarabajo” really are everywhere down here.  Sure, you’d see an original Bug now and then in MN, but due to the salt on the roads and the fact that they had not been sold in the US for so long, they were relatively rare.  Not in Uruguay.  I was really surprised when I started seeing so many here. Turns out that while most of the VW Beetle plants around the world closed in the 1970′s, the plants in South America stayed open another 10 years or longer:  The Uruguay plant closed in 1982  after a 20 year run, Peru shut down in 1987, and the Mexico plant was still producing the “original” Bug well into the 1990′s (some sources say up until 2003).  No wonder why you see them all over the streets here, and most in very good condition.  When I was out walking the other day, I counted a total of 7.  

Another story to come some day about the beloved MINI (we sold our 2002 MINI Cooper  just before moving to MVD) and the rebirth of iconic small cars.  Old MINIs are around in MVD, but even more prevalent are the gorgeous little original Fiat 500. Like the Bug, both the MINI Cooper and FIAT 500 have been redesigned and reintroduced, with much success.   I’m partial to the old models though and that’s what you see in Montevideo, so that’s what shall be written!

Here’s a weird little story…

When we started this blog  we had to choose a theme…and we did.  A theme provides the look and feel of the blog. There are 1000s of themes available for WordPress. Lisa and I came across Minimahl by Ahlera. We knew the moment that we saw it–we have to use this!  It was new, fresh and clean. We happily plugged it in and away we went.

The next day I thought it would be nice to see who designed the theme. I went to the website and saw an Uruguayan flag and phone number in the corner immediately. Are you kidding me!?  So I shot off an email.  Below is the story from the developer Daiver on the Ahlera blog. Daiver and I will be grabbing drinks very soon. I might even line up a tennis match on the clay courts.

15 APR 09 Minimahl’s most impressive story yet Posted by Daiver Pedemonte

Last week we released Minimahl, our free WordPress theme. We thought it was bound to bring interesting stories to our studio, mostly because of the wide variety of themes of blogs. We were curious to see who would adopt it and what modifications people would make.

Without a question, the weirdest story came via email from a guy named Brad.

Here’s an excerpt of the email we got from him:

My wife and I just chose your Minimahl theme for the first version of our new blog — urmovingwhere.com. The blog is about our recent move to Montevideo, Uruguay! We just checked out your profile to find that you’re in Uruguay! Of all the themes that we could have chosen–we chose one by a developer in MVD/BsAs area!

This coincidence is really weird, especially considering that the theme had just been released after several delays, they had just arrived at Montevideo, and they had just started the blog. Seriously, what are the odds that they pick out a first theme that shared so much with them?

Anyway, Brad and I have become good e-buddies as we share several interests regarding the Internet. I would have never expected something like this from a free WordPress theme, and certainly not so soon after the initial release.

As I write this, I’m sitting down in front of a developer (we’re working late) and he just commented, without knowing that I was blogging this, about the whole situation and how strange it was.

Anyway, we’re happy to have Brad using Minimahl and very satisfied to see that so many people have adopted it as their theme.

As of right now, Minimahl has been downloaded over 900 times from WordPress’ official site. If you want to take it for a spin, you may download the latest version here: http://wordpress.org/extend/themes/minimahl

We’re already working on version 0.9.8, so expect that soon.

Housing – Parte Dos

Well, our offer on the little house was accepted. We had a meeting a week ago with the owner and both Inmobiliarios (rental agents) to sign preliminary paperwork, sort of an agreement to agree/letter of intent with the basic terms and information spelled out. Now for the details to fall into place.

One of the big coordination issues is the cash. As mentioned in the last housing entry, 5 months rent (in UY pesos) is required to go into an escrow account, one month to the rental agent and then the first month rent payable to the landlord. That is 7 months rent up front! We could take money out of our accounts via the cash machine but the quantity needed, along with our daily limits, would require a visit to the cash machine every day for weeks. We do not have a bank account in Uruguay yet, which makes wiring money from our MN accounts difficult. We could possible write a personal check, but it is not known how much time that might take to clear.  With so many unknowns, we discussed this with our wonderful rental agent who agreed to let us wire to his company account in order to expedite the process.  After a  few phone calls and emails to get account numbers, and a visit by Brad to the local bank in UY which the money will be going to, the wire request from our MN bank was made and the money is on its way.

Honestly, the whole “wire” process is a bit backwards to me. In this time of instantaneous transactions, wiring money (which can take up to a week or longer in some cases) is supposed to be the fast way to transfer money. Fast?  Maybe in 1950!!!! But I digress….

When the money gets to the Uruguayan bank, it will be withdrawn in dollars, we will exchange it for pesos at another location to get the best exchange rate and then take it to another bank, the Banco Hipotecario del Uruguay (BHU) which is the only one in the city that handles this type of rental escrow account.  Banks open at 1 PM and we are told to plan to be there for a while because the whole process may take up to 2 hours. At that time, both the landlord and the renter sign the account and the lease paperwork. Keys are given out and when it is done, we have a place to live and can move right in.

The whole bank process is scheduled to happen on Monday the 20th, barring any delays in the money wire from MN. It is possible that we will be moving into the house on Monday evening!!

Language… Oh the Challenges!

Learning a language while in a foreign land is a great way to do it because you’re immersed but extremely frustrating because you’re immersed. It is baptism by fire, being thrown to the wolves, complete trial and error.  

I ventured off today with the baby to visit the dogs at the house where they are being boarded.  Not a big deal.  I knew where they were and how to get there.  I had a few basic questions in mind that I needed to know: ‘Do they have enough food to last one more week?’  and ‘Have they gotten the flea/tick treatment?’ Both of these are pretty easy questions but to a person who doesn’t know much Spanish (Me) and another person who knows even less English (the lady who boards the dogs), the whole exchange was a challenge.  She ended up grabbing her daughter’s Spanish/English dictionary which helped immensely for a few key words.  ”How did Pablo get the scar on his leg?” I told her that he had surgery to remove a lump. “When will you be picking them up?” Next week Tuesday or Wednesday. “Where is the new house you’re renting?”, etc.  The visit ended after about a half hour and I was proud of the things that we were able to communicate.  We both tried really hard and had to resort to miming at points, but we got the point across.  Oh Marcel Marceau would be so proud!!

Empanada

On the walk home, I was hungry so I stopped by a panadería (bakery) to get something to snack on when I got back to the aparthotel.  It was late in the day but I hoped that they would still have some empanadas (meat or cheese filled pastries).  The veggie options are sometimes hard to find but necessary for my vegetarian husband.  I pushed the stroller in and took a look in the display cases.  One Cheese/Onion and one Cheese/Olive Empanada left.  Perfect!  I started by asking the lady for “Empanadas, por favor” and it all went down hill from there.  She started asking me how many I want total (in order to get the right sized bag to put them in) and I thought she was talking about how many I want of each kind.  We stood there for a moment, not knowing what to say because neither of us was being understood.  I eventually understood what she was asking and told her I needed 4 total, then proceeded to place my order.   We got them bagged and she passed them to the check-out lady who asked for “Ochenta Pesos”.   I know that means 80,  I had exact change and handed it to the lady.  She counted it out onto the counter and told me “Ochenta pesos” again along with a string of other words that I didn’t understand.  After a moment of talking to me, they ended up saying it’s all good (in Spanish) and handing me my bag.  I was so confused because I thought she was asking for more money, but I think she was just counting it and saying that I had exact change and to take my empanadas.  I HOPE that’s what it was! How a simple exchange can be so confusing!! 

That’s the way to learn, though.  As much as it’s painful and I want to avoid those uncomfortable situations, I also want to be immersed in the culture and have real experiences with the Uruguayan people.  Through my whole day and those interactions, I think there were only two words in English!   I’ll be happy when I can start my Spanish lessons as I’m sure my language skills will progress quickly.  One can hope!

Hooking up the “Internets”

So after much deliberation as to the provider of our local Internet service; We’ve chosen Montevideo COMM.  They are a reseller of Antel and come with higher praise for their service level than Antel directly.  Both an Expat and a local Uruguayo that does website development pointed us in this direction.  We have “blazing” speed of 4096k down and 512k up.  This likely means nothing to many, but it’s as fast as you can get in Montevideo and more than sufficient for our purposes.  The set up is not much different nor much more expensive than the 7 Mb down that Qwest offered back in Minneapolis for business DSL.  

Montevideo COMM

The process of getting set up for service was surprisingly uneventful.  Since my Spanish is good–not great–I went into the MVDCOMM’s office to set it up.  It was in a cool old building near the Facultad de Arquitectura.  Just a small cozy office, where I was invited in by very helpful young guy who appeared to be just out of college.  I told him what I wanted (I also brought printout of the plan so there would be less chance that something would be lost in translation) gave him the phone number and address of our new residence and a copy of my passport that the receptionist took when I arrived.  He punched away at his computer for a few minutes while we chatted.  He printed out a few copies of the one year contract for me to review and sign. Told me that I would receive a call in roughly within the week to schedule hook up and away we go.  No payment needed yet.  I was instructed to pay the initial months service and hook up the day of install.  I was in and out the door in about 10 minutes. We’ll see how the next phase of this goes because that was almost a little too easy.  I tend to bring a healthy bit a skepticism to most situations, but I’m always optimistic that it will work out in the end.  Hopefully this will follow suit.

Easter in Montevideo

We really had no idea what to expect for Pascua (Easter) in Montevideo.  Brad and I were in Sevilla, Spain for Easter in 1997 and it was a wild celebration with everyone in their Sunday best and parades in the streets.  Uruguay is considered a secular country, unlike its giant neighbors of Brazil and Argentina and most of Latin America, so we figured that the Easter celebrations would be pretty calm here.  Calm is an understatement.  

People here see holy week as vacation week.  We were advised to get any business done before holy week started because shops would be closing down and people would be leaving town.  That was definitely true.  Some places were closed for the whole week, others just Thursday- Sunday.  What I was very surprised about is that the restaurants were business as usual, and in fact they seemed busier than most normal Sundays.  The beach and La Rambla were packed because it was another gorgeous day.  An short article talking about the “Vacation Week” tourism can be seen in Uruguay Daily News.

There were plenty of Conejo de Pascua (Easter Bunnies) in the stores, but it seems like the holiday is celebrated in name and with modern customs only, at least that’s all I could see as a tourist-outsider.  Hopefully I’ll have more insight into the Pascua holiday in Uruguay next year!